From: Subject: How the weapons work Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2003 08:28:04 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C39876.69B33160"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C39876.69B33160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://smith2.sewanee.edu/fencing/armourer.htm How the weapons work
Armory Guide
by Frank Pratt

Introduction

This is a guide to troubleshooting, repairing, and wiring foils and = =E9pe=E9s. My=20 knowledge of sabre is extremely limited, and thus sabre is not included = in this=20 guide. The only edited part of this document is the syntactic content, = so=20 anything that seems to be wrong might very well be. E-Mail me at fpratt@fencing.net if you have = any=20 questions or corrections.

How the basic fencing circuit works

One should understand how the foil and =E9pe=E9 circuits work before = trying to=20 figure out why the equipment is misbehaving. The scoring machine uses = input from=20 three lines from each fencer to determine what's going on, who hit whom = and=20 when, etc. These lines are know as A, B, and C. On the three prong = connector, B=20 is the center prong, A is the one closest to B, and C is the one that is = furthest from B (see diagram below.) In the foil and =E9pe=E9, the = electrical=20 current goes from the box, through the B line, to the tip (via. a wire) = and back=20 to the box somehow through the A or C line. Which route it takes depends = on the=20 weapon and a variety of other circumstances. For both foil and =E9pe=E9, = the C line=20 is the ground circuit. This includes all metal portions of both weapons=20 (excluding the A and B sockets and the metal on top of the tips) and the = metal=20 strip if one is present.=20


Troubleshooting

Foil

The foil circuit is normally closed, and is a bit more complex = that=20 the =E9pe=E9. Normally, electricity is flowing from the box, through the = B line=20 (through the wire in the blade's groove,) up to the tip, back through = the metal=20 portion of the weapon, and back to the box via the C line. On the weapon = end of=20 the 2-prong body cord, the smaller prong is the B line, and the larger = prong is=20 the C line. On the bayonet connector, the B lien goes to the tip and the = C line=20 goes to the surrounding metal portion if the connector. The A line goes = to the=20 lam=E9 via the alligator clip.=20

If you depress the tip anywhere except for your opponent's lam=E9, = you break=20 the circuit, and the white light goes off. In other words, if there = is a=20 break in the connection between the B and C lines, and the circuit does = not=20 return to the box within about 200 milliseconds, your white "off-target" = light=20 will go off. The weird thing about foil is that your A line is on = your=20 opponent's side, not yours. If your B line (the tip of your weapon) = is in=20 contact with your A line (your opponent's lam=E9) when the tip is = depressed, then=20 the circuit will return to the box through your opponent's lam=E9 and = body cord,=20 which will cause your colored "on-target" light to go off.

Common Problems=20

White light goes off when tip is not depressed=20

This is by far the most common problem with foils. It happens because = there=20 is a break in the B and C lines for some reason. The break might be = continuos,=20 or might only happen intermediately. Remember, anything that = breaks the=20 connection between the B and C line for more than a fraction of a second = will=20 cause the white light to go off. The problem is usually caused by a = loose=20 connection, loose tip or a loose grip.=20

- First, take the body cord out of the socket and firmly short the = two lines=20 on your disconnected weapon. If the light goes out when you short = the B=20 and C line and stays out when you wiggle the connection to the plug, = then the=20 weapon is bad. If the lights do not go out, then the problem is probably = with=20 the body cord. If the latter seems to be the case, hook up the weapon to = the=20 other side (assuming that that guy does not have the constant white = light=20 problem.) If there is no white light over there when your weapon is = plugged into=20 the other reel, then you need a new body cord.=20

- If the weapon is suspect, first be sure the grip and tip are tight. = If they=20 are not, then there will not be a solid connection between the B and C = lines.=20 This is often the cause of intermittent white lights. It is difficult to = tell if=20 the tip is loose since it is secured in place with tape. Go ahead and = twist it=20 hard counterclockwise (but only 1/4 turn) just to make sure. Also be = sure that=20 the connection between the blade wire and the body cord socket is = secure.=20 Intermittent white lights can also be caused by a loose connection at = either=20 plug on the body cord.=20

- If the weapon is tight and the problem persists, then hook it up to = the=20 ohmmeter and see if you can reproduce the break in the connection. The = needle=20 should get no more than 2 ohms resistance when it's connected. If the = resistance=20 is very high, then you need to re-wire the blade. Shake the weapon and = hit the=20 tip against something hard. A break can be seen as a jump in the needle. = If=20 there is a break and you cannot figure out where it is, it may be time = to=20 re-wire the blade.

Off-target when I hit him square in the lam=E9=20

For some reason, the B line (the tip of your weapon) is not = connecting to the=20 A line (your opponent's lam=E9.) The problem probably lies in the = opponent's lam=E9,=20 the A line on his body cord or his reel. First check the see that his = alligator=20 clip is secure on his lame. If it is, take it off and depress your = directly on=20 his alligator clip. If it works now, then the circuit is not making it = through=20 the lam=E9. This is probably because of corrosion in the lam=E9, which = is caused by=20 salt deposits from sweat. If the on-target light does not come on when = the lam=E9=20 is bypassed, then the A line in the opponent's body cord is probably the = problem. To check this, partially unplug the opponent's body cord and = depress=20 the tip directly on the exposed part of the opponent's A line. If this = works,=20 then the A line on his body cord is bad. Get him to replace the = cord so=20 you can start scoring touches on him. If this still does not produce a = colored=20 light, then the reel might be bad. To check the reel, unplug the floor = cord from=20 the reel and short out the B and C lines with a screwdriver or a blade = that is=20 not connected to the box to stop the white light. Then hit your = weapon=20 directly to the A line. If this works, then the reel is bad. If not, = then the=20 floor cord is bad. It could also be the box, but that is very unlikely.=20

Miswriting a body cord is probably more likely that a bad reel or = floor cord,=20 so check this before testing the floor cord or reel. If you have your B = line=20 connected to the large prong and the C line connected to the little = prong, then=20 the weapon will seem to work okay, except that you never be able to get = a valid=20 touch (kinda of a strategic disadvantage, isn't it?) This happens = because you C=20 line (rather than your B line) connects to your A line when you hit, = which=20 grounds out the touch (the box thinks you hit your opponent's bell or = the metal=20 strip.) To see if this is the problem, place a uninsulated metal portion = of your=20 weapon firmly on your opponent's lam=E9 and depress your tip. If you get = a valid=20 light, then the B and C lines are reversed. Re-wire the body cord if = this is the=20 case.=20

Another possible cause of the no-colored-light-syndrome is corrosion = or=20 something similar on your tip. If this is the case, then there will be = no=20 electrical connection between your tip and the other guy's lam=E9. Rub = it with=20 some sandpaper or replace the tip if this is the case. If you are sure = that your=20 body cord is wired correctly and your opponent's lame and body cord are = okay,=20 then the reel or floor cord is probably the source of the problem.

The box indicates on-target when the touch is not on the = lam=E9=20

This usually only shows up in the finals at big tournaments. Why? = because=20 those guys are sweating a lot after fencing five or six 15-touch bouts. = Human=20 sweat has salt in it, and salt water is a good conductor of electricity. = If an=20 off-target area (i.e. the bib on the mask) is soaked with sweat and is = in=20 contact with the lame, the circuit might go from the attacker's tip, = through the=20 sweaty clothing, and to the lame. The circuit return to the box via. the = lame,=20 and thus the box thinks that the touch was on the lame. This phenomena = usually=20 happens on the bib or the mesh of the mask. It can also happen at the = shoulders=20 and even down weapon arm. The only solution is to dry off the affected = clothing=20 or have the fencer change into dry clothing. I once heard of a kid in = the finals=20 at the National Championships who was getting on-target touches on his = arm. His=20 coach striped him completely from the waist up and replaced all his = clothing=20 with dry replacements.=20

Sweaty gloves are also a potential problem in foil. All electrical = equipment=20 is checked thoroughly at National tournaments, so weapon problems are = relatively=20 rare. Wet gloves are a big problem, however (especially in the finals.) = Foilists=20 should always have two gloves on hand so the dry one can be used = if there=20 are any problems. Anyway, one of two things can happen. If there is = sweat all up=20 the arm, then a touch one the wet glove can register as on-target. = However, if=20 the glove is touching an uninsulated portion of the weapon and there is = sweat=20 all the way up to the lam=E9, then the lam=E9 might ground out, and = nothing will=20 happen when he hits the sweaty fencer. This happens because the B line = of the=20 attacker is going through the lam=E9, down the arm of the attackee, = through his=20 glove, and to the C line of the attackee's weapon. The box thinks = the=20 attacker has hit the strip or the attackee's weapon, and thus no touch = is=20 registered (no lights on the box.) This is analogous to the attackee = placing his=20 bell in contact with his lam=E9 (see below.) If the box has yellow = lights, you=20 might see the light on the side of the sweaty fencer go on (dimly, = perhaps.)=20 This is why it is a good idea to insulate the entire handle on foils if = the=20 handle is made of metal.=20

There is also one other possible cause of grounding touches. If the = defender=20 has a metal portion of his weapon in contact with his lame, then the = current=20 will go from the attacker's B line, through the lam=E9, and to the C = line via. the=20 defender's weapon. The box thinks that the attacker has hit the = defender's=20 weapon, and no lights come on. This is why it is a 1st Group (yellow = card)=20 offense to touch your weapon to your lam=E9. This is another good reason = to=20 insulate the entire handle if it's made of metal (or at least the = portions of=20 the grip that are not covered by the hand.) If the box has yellow lights = on it,=20 the yellow light on the defender's side will light up when he touches = his weapon=20 to his lam=E9. I think newer boxes will actually register the touch, = since they=20 are controlled by a microprocessor rather than the principles of = electricity.=20

Dry gloves and an insulated grip are a foil fencer's friend. Wet = gloves and=20 uninsulated grips are not.

No lights at all when I depress the tip=20

This is kinda rare in foil. The most likely cause is that the B and C = lines=20 are connected as they should be, but there is no way to break them by = depressing=20 the tip. There is probably a short circuit between the B and C lines = somewhere.=20

First make sure the box is set to "foil" (not "=E9pe=E9".) Then = unplug the body=20 cord. If this causes the white light to go off, the weapon is to blame. = If not,=20 then the B and C lines on the body cord are shorting out.=20

If the weapon appears to be the culprit, check and make sure that no = part of=20 the blade wire is in contact with any metal portion of the weapon except = for the=20 "B" terminal on the socket. If there is a loose end where the wire wraps = around=20 the terminal, it might be in contact with the metal portion of the = socket and/or=20 the bell, which makes it impossible to break the B/C connection. Snip of = any=20 loose ends of the blade wire and make sure that the B socket is = completely=20 insulated from the C socket. If all else fails, disconnect the blade = wire=20 completely and see if this breaks the circuit. If not, then the short = might be=20 in the tip.=20

If the blade wire is not shorting out at the socket, then remove the = tip=20 screws, tip, and spring, and plug the weapon into the text box. If this = circuit=20 is open now (no lights on the text box or white light on the scoring = box,) the=20 tip and/or spring is probably shorting out the two lines. This can = happen if the=20 spring gets unseated from the cup. Re-assemble the tip and see if all is = well=20 now. If the light goes on again after replacing the tip, try a new tip = and=20 spring.=20

If you cannot correct the problem at the tip, then there is probably = a short=20 between the blade wire and the weapon. Check where the wire leaves the = bell. The=20 insulation can get chafed here, which may cause a short. If this seems = to be the=20 case, insulating the exposed wire with spaghetti might solve the = problem. The=20 short might also be somewhere between the bell and the tip, or in the = tip=20 itself. If the short is beyond the bell, it's probably time to strip it = down and=20 re-wire the blade.=20

If none of the above solves the problem, check the floor cords and = reel for a=20 short between the B and C lines (use the ohm meter.)

=C9pe=E9

In the =E9pe=E9 is a simpler normally open circuit, meaning that the = circuit is=20 open when the tip is not depressed. the A and B lines go to the tip and = the C=20 line is connected to the ground (i.e. the metal portion of the weapon.) = When you=20 depress the tip, you complete the circuit between the A and B lines, and = the=20 light goes off (there is no way to make the white lights go off in = =E9pe=E9, unless=20 the box is set to "foil" or something has gone horribly wrong inside the = box.)=20 Due to the nature of electricity, the circuit will go to ground if at = all=20 possible. So if you hit a grounded surface with your tip (i.e. your=20 opponent's bell or the metal strip,) the A and B lines will connect as = they=20 should, but the circuit goes through the C line of your opponent (or = through the=20 strip,) and the box does nothing (if the box has yellow lights on it, = these will=20 light up when there is a grounding connection.)

Common Problems=20

Box does not make any noise when I hit my opponent.=20

This is the most common problem in =E9pe=E9, and like the off = target light=20 in foil, there are a number of things that can cause it.=20

Be sure that you check the body cord before blaming the weapon. Take = out the=20 body cord and short the A and B lines on the bell of the = disconnected=20 weapon. If the box goes off, then the problem is probably in the weapon. = If not,=20 then it's probably the body cord. Have your opponent try your weapon = (assuming=20 his body cord is okay.) If it works, get another cord.=20

If you determine that the problem is in the weapon, there are two = underlying=20 reasons for this problem: (a) the A and B lines and not connecting when = you=20 press the tip and/or (b) The A and/or B line(s) is/are connecting to the = C line=20 and grounding out the weapon (in this case, the box thinks you hit your=20 opponent's guard or the metal strip.) If the problem is (a), then the = test box=20 will not produce any lights when the tip is depressed. If it is (b), = then the=20 red (foil) light on the test box will light up (sometimes along with the = green=20 light, sometimes not.) Here's what you need to do in each condition:=20

No light: If there are no lights on the test box at all, check = and=20 make sure that both blade wires are connected to the socket securely. = You can do=20 this by visually checking for a broken wire at the socket or by pressing = in the=20 tip and checking for continuity between the depressed tip and the A and = B=20 terminals on the socket. You should get very low resistance in both = cases. Also=20 check that the barrel is tight. Sometimes simply tightening it will = solve the=20 problem. Do not turn the barrel more than about 1/4 turn; any more = rotation will=20 break the wires at the cup, and this will mandate a re-wiring job.=20

If the problem is not solved by any of these measures, check and make = sure=20 that neither wire has broken off between the socket and top of the tang = (where=20 the wire exits the bell.) If one or both wire is/are broken and there is = not=20 enough left to get the wire to the socket, then you will probably need = to=20 re-wire the blade. Splicing the wire with a scrap piece is temporary at = best and=20 may not last for more than a few bouts. If all is well inside the bell, = then=20 there is probably a broken wire somewhere in the blade or tip. To find = out,=20 unscrew the tip screws and remove the tip and pressure spring. Test for=20 continuity between each terminal on the cup and the A and B lines in the = bell.=20 If one or both does not cause the needle to jump, a wire is broken, and = you need=20 to re-wire the weapon. You probably won't be able to find the break if = it is=20 under a big glob of glue or in the barrel.=20

Another place to check is inside the tip. If connecting the two = terminals=20 inside the tip with a small screwdriver causes the green light on the = test box=20 to come on, then the contact spring might not be hitting both contacts = on the=20 cup simultaneously. This happens because [a] the spring cannot reach the = contacts because it is too short, [b] the spring is not flat at the end = or is=20 slightly bent, or [c] the cup is not properly set. If you can get the = light to=20 go off using a small screwdriver directly on the contacts, then gently = unscrew=20 the contact spring on the tip counterclockwise a bit and try again. Also = check=20 to see that the spring is straight and the bottom of the contact spring = is flat=20 (never cut the spring, as this cut off the flat surface.) When in doubt, = try=20 another tip. When you get it to work, be sure to check it with the .5mm = shim to=20 make sure you did not unscrew the spring too much (the tip must travel = at least=20 .5mm before the box goes off.) If the cup appears to be improperly set, = you can=20 try to firmly re-seat it with the point setting tool, but chances are = you will=20 have to re-wire the blade (this is why you want to properly set the cup = in the=20 first place.)=20

The grounding light is coming on: If the box has no yellow = grounding=20 lights, then no touch will be registered; the weapon will seem to be = dead. If=20 the box does not have yellow lights, you can check for a grounding = problem on=20 the strip by disconnecting the body cord, turning it around, and = plugging it in=20 with the C prong hanging disconnected in space (be sure it's not = touching the=20 bell.) If the =E9pe=E9 works under this condition, there is a grounding = problem. You=20 can also use the test box to see if there is a grounding problem.=20

For some reason, the A and/or B line(s) are connecting to the ground = circuit=20 (i.e. the C line and/or the metal operation of the weapon.) If the = grounding=20 light is coming on, then check inside the bell and make sure that = neither blade=20 wire is touching the metal part of the weapon or the C terminal on the = socket.=20 If a loose end it touching any metal parts, snip it off.=20

Another area to look in is inside the barrel. If the little contact = spring on=20 the tip is bent (even slightly,) then it might touch the pressure = spring, which=20 is in contact with the metal portion of the barrel. Thus, the weapon = grounds out=20 when you depress the tip, or even when the tip is not depressed. Try a = new=20 tip/spring combination to see if you have better luck.=20

Also check the groove in the bell where the wires leave the bell. It = is=20 common for the insulation to wear off here, causing one or both wires to = ground=20 out via. the blade. If this is the case, cover the exposed wires with = the=20 "spaghetti" insulation. If none of this solves the grounding problem, = one of the=20 wires is touching the blade at some point between the bell and the tip. = If you=20 cannot find a break in the blade wire, the break is probably in the = barrel. At=20 any rate, you're gonna have to re-wire the blade.=20

Another theoretical cause is the circuit grounding out through = a wet=20 glove if the touch is on the wrist, though I have never seen this = happen. If the=20 glove is wet, then the circuit might go through the sweat in the glove, = and to=20 the metal part of the weapon (if the grip is metal and uninsulated.) The = B line=20 returns to the box through the sweat on the glove, the grip, and then to = the C=20 line (the weapon.) Thus the box thinks the attacker has hit his = opponent's=20 guard. This is obviously easy to check; if the box goes off when you = manually=20 depress the tip but not when you hit your opponent's wrist, then the = glove is=20 grounding out the touch. If this seems to be the problem, replace the = glove with=20 a dry one. See the last foil troubleshooting section for more details = about=20 sweaty clothing and insulated grips.

The box goes off when the opponent's bell (or the strip) is = hit=20

For some reason, the B line in the attacker's weapon is not = connecting to the=20 C line on his opponent's side.=20

First, unplug the opponent's body cord at his weapon and depress the = tip=20 directly on the C line on the body cord. If the box goes off, then the=20 opponent's body cord and/or the floor cord is bad. Unplug the floor cord = from=20 the reel and hit the weapon directly on the C line. If this causes the = box to go=20 off, you need to repair the floor cord. You might also want to check the = tip for=20 corrosion or anything else that might inhibit the completion of the = circuit.=20

If depressing the tip on the body cord's (floor cord's) C line works, = then=20 the problem is probably corrosion on the opponent's bell. If you can get = the=20 touch to ground out on some places of the bell, but not others, = corrosion or=20 might be inhibiting the touch. Rub the suspected area with sandpaper and = see if=20 it gets any better.=20

If hitting the grounded strip causes the box to go off, make sure a = metal=20 portion of the strip is connected to the box's strip socket, and make = sure the=20 connection to the strip is secure. Check for resistance from the strip = (where=20 the wire is connected) and the end of the wire that goes to the box; it = should=20 be very low. Also check for and remedy any corrosion or holes on the = strip=20 itself.

Weapon Re-Wiring 101

Sometimes the only way to get a weapon to work is to put a new wire = in it.=20 The good news is that everything on the blade except for the old wire = and cup=20 can usually be re-used. You just need a new wire with a cup attached. = However,=20 be sure not to mix different types or brands of tips and wires. = They=20 might fit together, and may even work, but they will fail quickly if = they do. We=20 have always used French parts from Tripplette Competition Arms = (the=20 "High Precision Components HPC" brand.) Most of our current = weapons use=20 these parts, and the majority of the spare parts are also HPC. These = parts are=20 interchangeable with the Purier parts from Tripplette, but not = with=20 German (i.e. Ulhmann/Allstar) or any other kinds of parts! Even French = parts=20 from another supplier might not work just right, so it's best to stick = with the=20 same type of parts from the same supplier.=20

Anyway, back to re-wiring. Start by taking everything off the tang = (i.e. the=20 pommel [or pommel nut,] grip, body cord socket, wire insulation, and = bell.) Then=20 remove the tiny tip screws and take off the tip. Unscrew the barrel with = a=20 wrench to remove it. Wipe some alcohol all over the glue to weaken it a = bit. Let=20 is soak for a while.

Removing the wire=20

Grab the old wire at the tang and slowly pull it out of the groove. = If you=20 are lucky, much of the glue will come off with the wire. Use a = screwdriver or=20 the Dremel tool to remove any pieces of the wire that are really stuck = (some=20 more alcohol, or even acetone might help here too. If you use alcohol or = (especially) acetone, remember that this stuff is extremely flammable, = so be=20 careful with sparks from the Dremel tool!!. Always wear safety = goggles=20 when using the Dremel tool! The disks on the have a tendency to = throw tiny=20 red-hot pieces of metal all over the place, which is bad for you eyes' = health.=20 The disks also shatter on a regular basis when you're using them, and = the pieces=20 go everywhere. Trust me on this; one such piece came within a few = centimeters of=20 blinding me in my right eye a few years back. I have never used the = Dremel tool=20 without safety goggles since then. You should avoid using acetone and = the Dremel=20 tool together. Doing to produces a horrible smell that is almost = unbearable. You=20 shouldn't need to use acetone if you use the Dremel tool anyway.=20

Despite the hazards, the Dremel tool works well for this task. Use = the small=20 grinding wheel for foils and a large heavy-duty one (and a grinding = head, if=20 necessary) for =E9pe=E9s. The Dremel tool also scores the grove, which = will help the=20 new glue bond to the wire. It is important to get all the old glue out. = Any old=20 crud that is left in the groove will cause the wire to pop out = (especially=20 towards the tip on =E9pe=E9s since the grove is so small up there.) = After using the=20 Dremel tool, take a small screwdriver and get out the tiny pieces of = glue that=20 are left. Do not proceed until you've carefully examined the blade to = ensure=20 that there is no more glue left. Every minute you spend cleaning out the = blade=20 is well worth it!

Initial Tip Assembly=20

Collect all the stuff you will need to re-wire the blade:
- blade = wire=20
- barrel
- tip/contact spring
- pressure spring
- tip = screws=20
- blade insulation ("spaghetti")
- bell, pad, socket, pad, grip, = and=20 pommel (or pommel nut.)
N.B.: you can usually re-use all these parts = except=20 for the blade wire and cup.=20

You will only need the barrel and blade wire for now. Put the small = parts in=20 a film canister and set it aside with the bell and other parts.=20

Take the blade wire and carefully unwrap it, removing all the = twists=20 and kinks. This is 20 gauge wire, and it will snap very easily. Be = especially=20 careful towards the cup; it is not hard to pull a wire right out of the = cup. Get=20 the wire(s) straight, and for =E9pe=E9s, make sure the wires are = parallel to one=20 another.=20

Thread the wire through the barrel. Stop when the cup is about 0.5" = from the=20 end of the barrel (do not put the cup in the barrel yet.) Screw = the=20 barrel on the blade one or two turns and ensure that the wire is not = caught in=20 the threads (i.e. make sure it moves freely in the grove. Then tighten = the=20 barrel as tight as you can get it using a wrench or pliers on the tip = and some=20 vice grip pliers to hold the blade (keep the wire away from the vice = grips!) Be=20 sure not the crack the barrel or twist the blade, though. You should not = be able=20 to loosen the barrel by hand when it's tightened. This is really the = only chance=20 you're gonna get to make sure it is tight; after the wire is glued, you = cannot=20 turn the barrel more than 1/4 turn or so without breaking the wires. = Next, place=20 the cup just inside the barrel. Use the point setter to push the cup = into the=20 barrel. The point setter is designed to push the cup straight into the = barrel=20 and to set it evenly at the bottom. There is a small line on the point = setter.=20 The cup is at the proper depth when this line is at the top of the = barrel. If=20 you cannot get the cup in far enough, you can try removing the cup = (carefully!)=20 and removing the plastic washer. When the cup hits the bottom, push the = cup in=20 there firmly to make sure the cup is set evenly. As you push the cup = into the=20 barrel, gently take up the slack of in the wire, pulling it through the = bottom=20 of the barrel to make sure it does not bunch up in the barrel. Again, be = careful=20 not to snap the wire as you pull it through.

Preparing the Blade for Gluing=20

Now it's time to wire the blade. The best glue to use is the Devco = stuff (in=20 the green tube.) This will turn into a gel in about 5 minutes and will = be dry=20 after several hours. If you must get it going quickly, super glue words = well,=20 but you really have to be really careful not to get it in the tip or = past the=20 tang (see "Types of Glue" below for more on this topic.) Start by = straightening=20 the wire(s). Then bend the blade and hold it there (against a wall or = using the=20 PVC cups and chain.) Put the wire in the groove and wrap the end around = the=20 tang. Put a piece of tape at the very top of the tang (where the top of = the bell=20 will be) to stop the glue from going too far down.

Gluing=20

Bend the blade in the normal way and secure it there somehow (i.e. = with the=20 chain and PVC cup gizmo or with the vent next to the punching bag in the = gym.)=20 The bend it to make sure the wire does not snap when the blade is bent = in a=20 bout. However, don't bend the blade any further than it would bend in a = bout. If=20 you do, then the blade wire will eventually pop out after you take the = bend out=20 of the blade. Bending the blade so the tip it pointing 45 degrees = relative to=20 the ground is a good rule of thumb. Check one last time that the blade = is in the=20 groove, then apply the glue. Go back and fill in the gaps you missed, = and check=20 it again. Once the entire blade in covered, let it set overnight before = taking=20 the bend out of the blade.=20

Overall, super glue may be best since you can have the weapon working = within=20 30 minutes (as opposed to 12 hours minimum with the household cement. =

Reassembly=20

After the glue is dry, slowly take the bend out of the blade. Then = test the=20 tip. Do this by stripping the insulation off the wire(s.) For =E9pe=E9s, = get a tip=20 and place it in the barrel (don't worry about the pressure spring or = screws.=20 Take a body cord, and plug one end into the weapons tester. Connect the = two=20 wires to the A and B lines, and touch the C line to the tang. The tester = should=20 act normally (no lights when tip is not depressed; green light only when = tip is=20 depressed.) If something else happens, see the =E9pe=E9 section to = determine what's=20 wrong.=20

For foils, assemble the tip completely. You must do this because the = circuit=20 travels from the B line to the C line (the weapon) via. the screws that = hold the=20 tip in place. Then connect the B line to the wire and touch the C line = to the=20 weapon (don't worry about the A line; it goes to the lam=E9.) With the = assembled=20 tip and pressure screw secured in the barrel, the red light should be = on.=20 Depressing the tip should cause the red light to go out.=20

If all is well, re-assemble the rest of the weapon. Be careful when = striping=20 the wires, and be sure to leave some extra length on them in case the = wire=20 breaks near the socket later on. USFA rules mandate that all wire(s) be=20 insulated all the way up to the terminal(s) on the socket (the wires = must be=20 individually insulated on =E9pe=E9s.) Also check and double check that = the wire(s)=20 go straight up after they come into the bell, and that they are going = through=20 the groove in the grip. If a wire is being pinched, it will snap when = you=20 tighten the pommel nut. Then you get to re-wire the newly re-wired = blade! When=20 the blade is completely assembled, test it once again to make sure the = socket is=20 wired correctly and that there are no wires grounding out at the socket. =

After you finish assembling a foil, be sure to put tape on the tip = and six=20 inches from the tip. The tape must cover the entire tip, right up to the = top of=20 the barrel. This is vital because if any uninsulated portion of the = weapon hits=20 the opponent's lam=E9 before or at the same time as the tip, the circuit = will go=20 from the attacker's B line to his own C line rather than through the = opponent's=20 lam=E9. As a result, the box doesn't make any noise.=20

Note that is it illegal to put tape on any portion of the = =E9pe=E9 (the=20 only exception is that you may use clear tape under the thumb pad = to=20 secure one or both wires, provided that the wires are secured separately = with=20 different pieces of tape. )

Body Cords

Body cords go bad at least as often as the weapons do. The good news = is that=20 they can almost always be repaired easily. If the cord is dead (i.e. no = lights=20 in =E9pe=E9 or constant white light in foil,) chances are one or more = wires has come=20 out of one of the plugs. After you determine that the body cord is the = source of=20 the problem (see the above troubleshooting guidelines to determine if = the weapon=20 or the cord is defective,) use an ohm meter to see which line is not = working.=20 Also be sure that the prongs on one end goes the correct prong on the = other end,=20 and that no line is in contact with any other line. In foil, be sure = that the A=20 line goes to the alligator clip, the B line goes to the small = prong, and=20 C line goes to the big prong (the B to the tip and C to the = surrounding=20 portion on the bayonet connectors.) When you find the wire that has = pulled out,=20 just cut off the old end (only about a centimeter or so,) strip off some = insulation, and put the fresh wire into the hole. Secure it with the = screw and=20 make sure you cannot pull it out. You might need to curl the end of the = wire=20 over itself to get it to stay in the prong securely. Lastly, make sure = all lines=20 have resistance of less than 2 ohms. If the resistance is any higher, = the box=20 might not register the touch.

Frank Pratt
fpratt@fencing.net
Revised = 5/98=20

Click here=20 to return to my list of fencing pages=20
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